Fresh Skin-On Salmon Fillet Portions

Salmon cut into thick, square-cut portions, a bright even orange crossed by fine white lines of fat. The flesh is glossy and close-grained with the fat running through it evenly rather than pooled in one place, and the skin is still intact along the base of each piece.

Cook it skin-side down: a hot pan, a little oil and enough patience to let the skin crisp and the fat render before you turn it. The thickness of these portions also suits a short spell in a hot oven, steaming with ginger and scallion, or a light cure. Serve them just short of done — they carry on cooking off the heat.

• Thick, square-cut fillet portions
• Bright orange flesh with even white fat lines
• Skin left on
• Pan-fry skin-side down, roast, steam or cure

Keep frozen at -18°C or below. Thaw in the refrigerator and cook thoroughly before eating.